From Palate to Palette: Can Food be Art?

Can food be art? Photo courtesy of Jacquelyn Strycker

Can food be art?
Image courtesy of Jacquelyn Strycker

Last night, I cooked broccoli rabe with caramelized onions and vegan fennel sausage, along with a creamy parmesan polenta and a crusty whole wheat rosemary bread made from the Camaldoli sourdough culture that I feed flour to each day. Like many artists I know, I love to cook. My bookshelves are filled with equal numbers of art books and cookbooks. I often spend between one and two hours making dinner each night. I used to feel guilty about this—worried that my time would be better spent in my studio drawing or printing or otherwise artmaking—but then I came to see that making food—combining textures, flavors, scents and colors—is also creative. Indeed, I know many artists who are also passionate about food, and have come to consider food a part of their practices. A recent New York Times opinion piece even claims that food “has replaced art as high culture.” Yet the same article argues that food is not art.

Proust on the madeleine is art; the madeleine itself is not art.

A good risotto is a fine thing, but it isn’t going to give you insight into other people, allow you to see the world in a new way, or force you to take an inventory of your soul.

Is this true, or do chefs deserve a place at the table with painters, sculptors, photographers, musicians and performers? Can food be art?

In fact, there’s a long tradition of food as artistic medium. A paper by Howard Coutts and Ivam Day published by the Henry Moore Foundation describes the European sugar sculpture, porcelain and table layouts from the 16th through 19th centuries. Dining was not just about eating food, but also about its elaborate display. Tables were adorned with sculptures made from marzipan, wax or sugar paste. Court artists and designers “of the highest caliber” were the creators of these edible works. Coutts and Day describe an 1815 feast given in the Great Hall of the Louvre by the Royal Guard to celebrate the final defeat of Napoleon:

Huge pièces montées, in the form of gilded sugar military trophies, crafted by the patissier Carême, were displayed between the tables. At this level, table decorations were an aspect of political and social prestige, and required the skills of the finest artists and craftsmen of the time.

More recently, we can look at German artist Wolfgang Laib’s milkstones and rice pieces. Laib’s milkstones are large square slabs of marble that have been hollowed out and filled with milk, resulting in reflective white squares. His “Unlimited Ocean” was a grid of 30,000 piles of rice installed at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. Laib uses these natural materials to create ephemeral and sensual experiences.

Leah Foster's "Muffin Tops"Image courtesy of the artist

Leah Foster’s “Muffin Tops”
Image courtesy of the artist

Similarly, we can also look at the work of emerging artist Leah Foster, who has created elaborate installations using cupcakes. For Muffin Tops, she used thousands of cupcakes and glazed surfaces of the gallery with batter and frosting.

But food as medium is not the same as declaring that a meal is art. We get closer to this with relational aesthetics and social practice, which often use food to facilitate social interaction and community. Last year, Rirkrit Tiravanija replicated his installation, Untitled (Free/ Still) at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Museum goers were able to enter a gallery and receive a bowl of vegetarian thai curry over rice, take some water from a stocked refrigerator and then sit at one of several communal tables. The work was originally installed at 303 gallery over 20 years ago. The artist describes the original installation in a conversation with MoMA’s Director, Glenn Lowry.

So when you first walk in, what you see is kind of haphazard storage space. But as you approached this you could start to smell the jasmine rice. That kind of draws you through to the office space. And in this place I made two pots of curries, green curries. One was made how Thai restaurants in New York were making it. To counter that, on the other pot was a authentically made Thai curry. I was working on the idea of food, but in a kind of anthropological and archeological way. It was a lot about the layers of taste and otherness.

A Fallen Fruit Collective "public fruit jam" Photo credit: Julian Bleeker

A Fallen Fruit Collective “public fruit jam”
Photo credit: Julian Bleeker

Fallen Fruit Collective is another example of participatory art involving food. David Burns, Matias Viegner and Austin Young use fruit as a material to explore notions of “urban space, ideas of neighborhood and new forms of located citizenship and community.” One of their most popular projects are their “public fruit jams” in which they invite members of the community to bring fruit and collaborate with one another to make jams. The collective explains:

Working without recipes, we ask people to sit with others they do not already know and negotiate what kind of jam to make: if I have lemons and you have figs, we’d make lemon fig jam (with lavender). Each jam is a social experiment. Usually held in a gallery or museum, this event forefronts the social and public nature of Fallen Fruit’s work, and we consider it a collaboration with the public as well as each other.

But ultimately the aforementioned projects are art first and food second. We don’t really care how Tiravanija’s curry or Fallen Fruit Collective’s jams taste; food is the means to creating a social work. Rather than art made from food (food as medium), or art that uses food to create an experience (food as impetus), is there art that is food that is art?

Future Farmers Victory Garden Seeds Photo Credit: Mark Simpkins

Future Farmers Victory Garden Seeds
Photo Credit: Mark Simpkins

We start to get there if we look at small-scale food production. Community gardens are now often viewed as both organic, local food sources and art projects. Victory Gardens 2007+ is a project developed by Garden for the Environment and the City of San Francisco’s Department for the Environment with “lead artist” Amy Franceschini. Both an art project and a model/ support system for urban gardening, they’ve received funding from art institutions like SFMOMA and the Fleishhacker Foundation. The project aims to create a network of “urban farmers” who utilize rooftops, window boxes, backyards and unused plots of land for food production. It includes the development and distribution of seed starter kits to home gardeners, food-production educational initiatives and the development of a city seed bank. The success of the gardens and seed bank are integral to the success of the project, making it equally about art and food production.

If food production can be art, why don’t we also consider the cooking of food as art? Combining and transforming materials is a fundamentally creative activity, whether those materials are paints, clays, musical notes or edible ingredients. In fact, gastronomy is even included in some countries’ ministries of cultural affairs. The embassy of Peru’s Public Diplomacy department lists “gastronomy, including the promotion of the Peruvian national drink, Pisco,” in the six types of cultural programming that the embassy supports, alongside visual arts exhibitions, cinema and music. Last year, Spain’s Ministry of Culture partnered with Casa Asia, the Cervantes Institute and the Spanish Embassy New Delhi to promote Spanish “culture industries” in India. The programming included a lecture from José Luis Galiana of Basque Culinary Center, the first university-level education centre in Gastronomic Sciences in Europe. And, in 2010, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) honored the “gastronomic meal of the French” as part of the “intangible cultural heritage of humanity.”

If cuisine can be recognized as culture, then why aren’t we also acknowledging it as art? At street fairs in Brooklyn and on etsy.com, handcrafted, small batch artisanal foods like habanero ketchup, black garlic mayo, buffalo jerky and sea salt chocolate caramels are sold alongside knit scarves, hand sewn quilts, embroidered tea towels and beaded jewelry. The most recent Renegade Craft Fair– a juried marketplace of handmade goods– had vendors selling items like letterpress stationary, molded soaps, screenprinted t-shirts, ceramics and carved wood furniture, as well as local honey, cookies, spices and bonbons, and offerings from Chickpea & Olive and La Crêpe C’est Si Bon. The DIY movement has embraced food as craft.

The design community has also begun welcoming cuisine into the fold. Core77 Design Awards includes a category for “Food Design.” The Vitra Design Museum Boisbuchet in France has hosted a lecture by food photographer, designer and cookbook author Emilie Baltz. And in 2011, I attended Talk to Me: A Symposium at MoMA, a program that featured presentations and panel discussions related to the Architecture and Design’s concurrent exhibition, Talk to Me: Design and Communication between People and Objects. Marcus Samuelsson, the acclaimed Ethiopian-born and Swedish-raised chef and owner of Red Rooster Harlem was one of the panelists. Samuelsson passed out spiced nuts to rapt audience members, and spoke about how he designed the menu at his restaurant so that it would reflect the diversity of the Harlem community in which it’s located: dishes include soul food and Dominican cuisine with nods to Samuelsson’s own Swedish heritage, all using foods from local farmers and artisans. He was both chef and designer.

An edible menu from Moto Photo credit: Seth Anderson

An edible menu from Moto
Photo credit: Seth Anderson

We can also look at molecular gastronomy as a point of intersection between design and food. Also referred to as modernist cuisine, it involves the application of scientific principles to cooking in order to create surprising and inventive aesthetics and textures in food. At Moto, a Chicago restaurant that specializes in this type of cooking, diners may be served a deconstructed/ reconstructed avocado, be asked to put on a smoked glove to eat a chocolate dish, and finish their meal with a printed elderflower-marshmallow menu. The restaurant’s kitchen includes a lab where chefs conduct technological experiments to create innovative dishes with flavors that often seem incongruous to their appearance, disrupting diners’ notions of what food can be.

The art world is beginning to notice. In October, Suzanne Anker, Chair of the BFA Fine Arts department at the School of Visual Arts, organized a conference called “Molecular Cuisine: The Politics of Taste” that investigated “the importance of taste from the perspectives of the culinary arts, sociology, art history and theory, anthropology, as well as the cognitive, material and biological sciences.” Anker’s projects at SVA include overseeing the creation of a Nature and Technology Lab, where, among other things, students can experiment with alternative growing systems like aquaponics, and a molecular gastronomy kit that gives them the tools to create items like olive oil foam, balsamic vinegar caviar and strawberry spaghetti.

The Edible Schoolyard at MLK Middle School in Berkeley Photo credit: mental.masala

The Edible Schoolyard at MLK Middle School in Berkeley
Photo credit: mental.masala

But it shouldn’t just be novel high-tech cooking techniques that warrant our attention. The art world needs to include chefs like Marcus Samuelsson, Alice Waters, David Chang and Christian Puglisi in its conversation as well. Waters’s restaurant, Chez Panisse, opened over four decades ago with seasonal menus created from organic, locally-sourced ingredients, serving as a model and inspiration for the locavore and slow food movements. Her Edible Schoolyard Project, begun in 1996, integrates gardening, cooking and sharing school lunch into the academic curriculums of participating institutions. Chang’s Momofuku empire serves food that combines techniques from and pays homage to wildly varying fare including Asian street food, French cuisine and McDonald’s. Puglisi’s Relea is committed to providing creative, organic, environmentally responsible meals while simultaneously eliminating the exclusivity associated with fine dining. These chefs aren’t just cooking inventive and delicious cuisine. They are also using food to tell stories, conjure memories, and to establish philosophies, such as a connection between cooking, community and sustainability.

The arts, including painting, sculpture, installation, dance and music, are in part about creating a sensory experience—something for the audience to see, feel or hear. And perhaps more than any other discipline, food has the ability to appeal to all of our senses—a combination of colors, textures, crunches, smells and tastes goes into the making of a meal, and the selection and transformation of those elements is creative. When a creative, sensory form also has the capacity to express philosophies, inspire multiple interpretations, conjure narratives and/or allude to complex meanings, it is art, whether the medium is paint or piano or polenta. Food has not replaced art as high culture; it is art.

Share

7 Comments

  1. sara
    Posted January 7th, 2013 at 10:56 am | Permalink

    well said!
    i’m not an artist, but i love cooking for the same reasons, and love dining out (at places like Relæ) for the same reasons.
    in our modern world which offers (too) much words and images, things that appers to the rest of our senses are especially welcome, and a well crafted dinner with thought put into the choice of ingredients and cooking process can be more uplifting than a visit to a gallery or reading a good novel.

  2. Posted January 7th, 2013 at 12:55 pm | Permalink

    Thank you for this beautifully articulated argument for food as art. My sister and I started a food blog last year, largely because I realized that cooking has become my primary creative act (after years as a dancer and general art enthusiast). I really love your description of art as a creative act that can “tell stories, conjure memories, and establish philosophies.” And food surely does those things!

  3. Posted January 7th, 2013 at 1:19 pm | Permalink

    Fallen Fruit deserves a shout out too. They just opened a public fruit orchard that was funded through a public art program in Los Angeles. Here is a piece about it that ran on the local ABC affiliate: http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/story?section=news/local/los_angeles&id=8944059

  4. Posted January 7th, 2013 at 3:48 pm | Permalink

    Great article. I think that chefs are taking their medium (food) back from the stayed institutions that have allowed them to stagnate. Similarly, I think craftspeople and artists are taking back more of the design and manufacture of everything the communities need. Being a locavore means getting everything locally. As a potter of twenty-some years I have supplied pottery to more restaurants in the last 2 years than I had in the previous 20. Viva la Revolution!

  5. Posted January 8th, 2013 at 3:34 pm | Permalink

    Interesting take, Jered. Personally, I’m a hard believer in getting everything locally, and its amazing how it changes just about everything with a business.

  6. Jimbob
    Posted January 19th, 2013 at 9:34 am | Permalink

    Food is beautiful, food is delicious, but I really do not think that food is art…or for that matter can ever reach the level of ART. Philosophically not possible as far as Art has been defined.
    It gives us untold pleasure…and affects us in amazing ways…is as far as one can appreciate it…taste buds, sense of smell and sight, and touch…but never could reach or be considered Art…Art like…but not Art..And please this is after four years Of university philosophy and two years visual studies at Graduate school…it has been discussed many times…but within the tomes of knowledge today…nope…not art.

  7. phyllis
    Posted January 19th, 2013 at 7:45 pm | Permalink

    Food can be used to create artistic things. It can also be used to create art. But in and of itself it’s not Fine Art. It belongs in the category of craft. So foods are created by artisans or artistes, by the standard definitions. Creating foods, menus, presentations of foods, are all still in the category of doing things as well as can be done, as the Balinese state. The presentation of food stuffs has become entertainment. A restaurant design could possibly crossover the line and become art if the room could stand on its own as an artwork but not as an emporium for the degustastation of restoratives. I say this, and could say more, as I am already a painter and a chef. Indeed it is in cooking where all five senses are used. In painting I am only using a few. But is that the parameter of art-making? We can call it food art though and keep the coast clear for artistic adventures that rouse more heady sentiments than a bowl of pasta, as good and as well presented as it might be. Food can be beautiful and should be in order to arouse the gustatory senses. But I shouldn’t want to travel through a fine art museum with my mouth watering.

4 Trackbacks

  1. [...] have a post on Createquity about two of my favorite topics: art and [...]

  2. [...] Deresiewicz recently wrote a piece for the NY Times that declares that food cannot be art. My post on Createquity argues [...]

  3. By Around the horn: Super Bowl edition | Createquity. on February 3rd, 2013 at 11:38 am

    [...] month, Jacquelyn Strycker explored the artistic side of food, including the new creations coming out of the field of molecular gastronomy. Elizabeth Merritt [...]

  4. […] a writing fellow for the Arts Policy virtual think tank/ blog Createquity, Strycker wrote “From Palate to Palette: Can Food be Art,” an article that explored the intersection of art, craft, design and cuisine. In that article, […]

Post a Comment

Your email is never published nor shared. Required fields are marked *

*
*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>